Vayakheil-Pikudei: Religious Architecture
Karen and I have just arrived in A New York. We were greeted at the gate, outside customs, by Steve and Naomi. It was a refugee scene. We had just arrived after escaping closed Israeli airspace by going to Amman, Jordan. The US state department suggested Egypt as a better route, but, after our plane from Sharm el Sheikh was cancelled, Amman made the most sense.
The first siren, signifying incoming Iranian missiles, was on Saturday morning Feb. 28. I was walking to the Jerusalem Central Synagogue along Derech Hevron. Although the English street sign calls this Hebron Street, the Hebrew implies that it is a road to the city of Hebron. The word Hebron is rooted in Chaver, friend. Hevron is not a friendly city for Israelis. It had a very large Palestinian population and a settler foothold. It is the scene of the Hebron massacre in 1929, a pogrom against Jews, in British Palestine. Hebron is part of the territory occupied after the 1967 war It is a very tense place. Hebron is the site of the burial of Abraham, patriarch of Hebrews and Muslim. Agreeing on a common patriarch does not lead to enough family kinship to prevent war.
David ruled in Hebron, but the tabernacle was never stationed there. In the time of David, the Tabernacle and its associated animal sacrificial rite was in Givon. David had the ark, the Cherub guarded gold plated, box that contained the tablets from Sinai, moved to Jerusalem. David's son, Shlomo, replaced the tabernacle with the Temple in Jerusalem, unifying the sacrificial rite with the Revelation at Sinai. The sanctity of Jerusalem was established for all time forward. A battle ground was identified.
I was walking to the Great synagogue because of the intense emotional experience I have when the choir sings and harmonizes the Shabbat liturgical highlights. Although the music is the final trigger, the entire experience: the marbled hall, the architecture, the diversity of the crowd ( devout and music lovers and tourists), the longing of the prayers, all contribute to the experience. The architecture has many components but there is a stated reference to the Temple of Solomon and the lineage of form that starts with the Tabernacle described in the parsha. The Great Synagogue is a distortion of the dream of rebuilding the great Temple of old in Jerusalem, at its previous site, now occupied by a Moslem religious complex.
I did not make it to the synagogue. Instead, I looked for shelter from shrapnel from intercepted missiles and actual missile explosions. Derech Chevron is the site of light rail construction ( for the next several years). At some points, the street detours away from the apartment buildings that line the road in that neighborhood. When the siren rang out, I was on a detour. I hurried back to an apartment building and, although using electricity is forbidden on the Shabbath, I rang every doorbell. Someone let me in. I went to the garage (a good, but not the best, shelter) and looked for an official shelter, but could not find one. I had some trouble finding my way out of the garage (locked for security) , but I got out and went home to our apartment that has an official shelter room (maamad) . The Great Synagogue and the Gd of the great synagogue did not feel like enough shelter at that moment,
We spent the next 10 days living between sirens. Our daughter Shoshana, he husband Micha and our granddaughter Alma stayed with us. There are far fewer attacks , hence alarms, in Jerusalem than on Ramat Gan where they live. They do not have a convenient shelter, they run across the street with 90 seconds notice to a stairway that is a mediocre shelter. In the Jerusalem apartment, the three of them could sleep in a shelter room. The tabernacle did no offer effective physical shelter. It sheltered the people from the wrath of Gd - a danger that never ends.
We spent the next 10 days living between the sirens. Seeing people who have been important in our lives; Going to out to kosher restaurants, taking buses and light rail, shopping. The sirens in Jerusalem were not frequent. We would often walk on the promenade. This is a hilltop park built in the area that was no-man's land separating Jordanian administered East Jerusalem from Israel. From that high vantage point, there is a full view of the (byzantine) walled old city of Jerusalem sitting on a hill, crowned with the Golden dome of the mosque (built by the Umayyads in 692)that sits on the site of the ancient Hebrew and Jewish temple (and prevents its reconstruction). The valleys to the east have densely constructed Arab neighborhoods. In the distance, the wall that separates annexed Israeli Jerusalem from the other occupied territories is visible. It is an overwhelming site of beauty , hope, despair, sadness, all forms of pride, and hope. The architectural structures in the center, built for rituals that praise and appease the One Gd (a belief shared by Jews, Muslims and Christians) is a cause for battle and war among the believers. Does religious architecture emphasize nationalism over understanding others?
Every day, we look out at the Golden dome. It is said that Jerusalem is protected by the Golden dome. That mosque is among the holiest sites in Suni Islam. The rockets are coming from Shiite Iran. to them that site, that mosque , is much less significant. But damaging it would enrage the Suni peoples and risk their turning on Iran. Hence, Iran does not want to risk damaging the Golden Dome. If the Jewish temple were there, it would probably be a target for the missiles. Jerusalem is protected by the Golden dome (as well as the Iron Dome)
I have a work commitment that motivates my return to the Northwest by Sunday. Our flight from Ben Gurion had been cancelled. The replacement flight, that would have required overland travel to Sharm el Sheikh was cancelled. We scrambled. The only available flights were from Jordan. We decided to cross the Allenby Bridge ( No one told us we needed a visa; I figured it out) Karen had hired a Jordanian tour company. They made it relatively easy. Waiting for our ride to Amman from the border crossing, a beggar boy ( estimate: 13 year old) got some (Israeli) change from me and a nonuniformed man starting beating him. A uniformed policeman then came and chased the boy away, but said nothing to the man who was beating him. Welcome to Jordan.
Murad, our diver and guide in Amman is a Palestinian. He lives in a refugee camp. He says the rents are cheaper. He could live in the city if he had the money. He is not a citizen of Jordan. His parents moved in 1968 ( presumably because of the 1967 war). He has never been to Jerusalem and he dreams of going to Mecca and Medina. He fasts during the day. It is Ramadan.
On the way to the hotel, we have a tour of the nearby opulent, guarded mansions. These, and the amazing hotel buildings we see later, are structures built, in large part, to impress the viewer. That was also the nature of Tabernacle and its derivative temples. The impressive exterior announces the great status of the inhabitants. It alienates the outsiders.
Murad takes us on a standard tour of Amman. We go to the citadel which is dominated by the ruins of a temple to Hercules built by Marcus Aurelius. There are also ruins of an Umayyad settlement and a Byzantine church. Impressive structures become ruins. That is the certain fate of that which is not rebuilt
The Amman citadel offers an excellent view of the Roman Amphitheater, built by Antoninus (presumably the friend of Rabbi Judah the Prince who is mentioned in the Talmud). We later went down and saw the marvelous acoustics, both public and private (the wall transmits quiet conversation to the other side of the theater), This structure is still used for public concerts.
Murad drives us to the airport. He tells us that he cannot understand how people cannot believe in Gd. Did all the wonders of the human body occur without a creator? I do not burden him with my opinion that non-believers are invoking their own god, Chronos: the idea that infinite time allows the selection of infinite possibilities. Rather I tell him that basis of non-belief is that Gd fails to appear when needed (in the opinion of the person). How can Gd allow the war to proceed?
I tell him that the belief in one Gd means that there is one justice for all people. The favoritism of the Bible stories are demonstrations of Gd's faithful fulfillment of rewards for exceptional good behavior. All people are the same before Gd. All people who believe in one Gd should not battle over the details of ritual.
Do the structures, like the tabernacle and temple (and the mansions) fuel the battle between the nations, the sects, the classes? There are many descriptions of the Temple. My favorite is in Selichot quoted from Isiah 56:7
כִּי בֵיתִי בֵּית תְּפִלָּה יִקָּרֵא לְכָל הָעַמִּים:
for My House, will be called a House of Prayer for all peoples.”
May these structures bring us to proper awe and mutual respect and the greatest blessing. Shalom, Peace.